From the cellars of Champagne, we move south, into the beautiful region of Languedoc, home to our next visitor: Gérard Bertrand. If Champagne Henriot’s visit taught us what it means to honor the pure essence of the grape by removing oak from the process, our experiences with Gérard Bertrand offers an entirely different kind of conviction.

Leading us through, Mr. Jan Visser, APAC Sales Director, with over twenty years at Gérard Bertrand, with Gérard Bertrand himself.

The Man Behind the Label

We start with the history and man behind the brand, Gérard Bertrand, raised in the south of France with a passion for not just wine, but Rugby as well, playing as a flanker for RC Narbonne, making Captain, and later, joining Stade Français. Though, even as a professional, two passions ran in parallel, and alongside rugby, wine called just as loudly beside his father, Georges Bertrand.

Unfortunately, his father passed in 1987, leading Gérard, at the time just twenty-two years old, to take over the family estate: Domaine de Villemajou in Corbières. For years, he trained Rugby while at the same time, managing harvests and winemaking, until retiring from Rugby in the mid-nineties and going all in on wine. What followed was the building of a quiet, yet extraordinary wine house.

The House of Gérard Bertrand

Today, the house spans over 1,000 hectares across Languedoc, the largest organic winegrowing region in France. Family owned, with a strong presence across global markets, and now in its fourth generation of winegrowers, from Paule to Georges, to Gérard, and now Emma and Mathias. The same family, the same land, carried forward. Gérard's daughter Emma serves as Creative Director and Global Ambassador for the brand, while his son Mathias is involved in the viticultural and technical side, continuing a tradition that Gérard himself apprenticed under for twelve years alongside his father Georges.

One of the most defining characteristics of the house is its commitment to biodynamic farming, a tradition long practiced before certifications ever existed. It treats the vineyard with respect not only to the stars, but to the soil and every inhabitant within it. Biodynamic vineyards were already organic long before the world had a word for it. With his foray into wine, Gérard did not just adopt the practice, but became one of its champions, pushing it into the mainstream and encouraging his neighbors to follow, as sustainability is as much a collective act as it is a personal one. Today, the house holds Demeter certification across all of its wines, as you will see below.

The Wines

Domaine de l’Aigle (Eagle)

First, we try the Domaine de l’Aigle, prominently featuring an eagle on the label. The wine itself hails from the highest vineyard in Languedoc, its name inspired when an eagle’s nest was discovered at the estate in 1940.

With the first sip, it shows immediate similarities to a Chardonnay from Burgundy: oak, butter, freshness, with a long finish that lingers in the mouth. Among our own clientele, it pairs naturally alongside Khmer cuisine, the persistence of flavor, and its slow cruise of tastes, pairs remarkably well with a litany of favorite Khmer dishes.

Cigalus Blanc

Named by a certain commonality shared between France and Cambodia, Cigale, or as you may know, the Cicada, symbol of the southern French summer. Beyond the name, Domaine de Cigalus holds a special place in Bertrand's legacy: the first property Gérard purchased for himself, serving as his family’s residence for decades; and the first vineyard to be converted to biodynamic farming in 2002.

The Cigalus Blanc is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier, aged twelve months in oak. Each grape brings something different to this bottle: the Sauvignon Blanc imparts freshness and acidity, Viognier adds a white flower aroma, and the Chardonnay, a buttery mouth feel when aged well. Compared to the Domaine de l’Aigle, it is much more acidic, while retaining a balanced freshness that is sharp, buttery, and gives you a toasty end. It is complex, and would make an amusing pairing with some fried cicada.

Domaine de l’Aigle Pinot Noir

Back to the highest estate, we now have a pure Pinot Noir, a strong expression of the terroir. A Burgundy style like its white counterpart, aged 12 months in French oak, yet somewhat different when compared to Burgundy Pinot Noir.

This difference comes from the Languedoc sun, more light, more warmth, more sugar. The result? A deeper color, a more fruit-forward expression: dark cherry, oak, and a ripeness that encompasses the terroir.

Cigalus Rouge

While we’ve been exploring wines with one or two blends, today, we are introduced to a bottle that encapsulates seven different grapes into one bottle, the Cigalus Rouge, holding Cabernet Sauvignon; Cabernet Franc; Merlot; Syrah; Carignan; Caladoc*; and Grenache! The result is a wine that bridges two souls of French winemaking, the wild, sun-soaked character of the Mediterranean south, and the structured elegance of the Atlantic-influenced Bordeaux tradition.

*Of particular note, Caladoc is a heat resistant cross of Grenache and Malbec, developed in 1958 as a very early response to a warming climate, long before it was ever a conversation worth having.

On the nose, you smell strawberry and ripe red fruit, but on the palate, plum, mint and a warmth that shows you why it sits at 14.5% ABV.

Domaine de Villemajou Rouge

You may recall Domaine de Villemajou earlier in the article, the very first estate that Gérard Bertrand inherited. Today, it is still very much present, a lasting legacy and tribute to his father. The label, in contrast to almost every bottle from Gérard Bertrand, is pure gold. Black and red font intermix while the Chateau from the very beginning lays in a red outline. It yells, old fashioned, purposeful as this is the original design since all those years ago, respecting the legacy since 1970, and will continue to do so for many years.

Aged 14 to 16 months, a blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, giving us a taste that is earthy, aged, initially drying out the tongue only for you to salivate not soon after. On the nose, dark fruit, cassis (blackcurrant), leathery. On the palate, a rounded quality, bringing you that cassis aroma in taste, weaving between black fruit, plums and cherries, with a note of mint, white pepper and licorice.

It feels old fashioned in the best sense: grounded, precise with a finish that stays with you as is the legacy of Georges Bertrand. A wine you can also keep in the cellar for years to come, and a personal favorite of the day’s masterclass.

Though class has ended, Maison Gérard Bertrand and Mr. Jan Visser’s journey in the Kingdom of Wonders does not end there, as we move from the classroom, into some of Phnom Penh’s best dining tables.

Gérard Bertrand @ Le Deli

The same day of the masterclass, we made our way towards Le Deli. Many Phnom Penh residents may be familiar with the name: a small but intimate French bistro nestled in the city center. For years, familiar faces have eaten at this long running establishment under the purview of Chef Pierre Favitski. Inside, the noise of conversation and silverware, a ritual toasting of glasses every other minute becomes its own kind of ambience, a perfect setting for a four course dinner guided by Jan Visser and Chef Pierre.

Highlights

Gérard Bertrand’s Château l'Hospitalet Blanc 2022, paired with Grilled King Prawn in a Lime Butter Clam Sauce

Opening the evening, a sip of the l’Hospitalet Blanc, your palate initially hit with chalk and mineral notes, before giving way to buttery goodness and bright citrus. As it lingers, a bite of the grilled king prawn, perfectly cooked, sweet and succulent, finished by the creamy zest of the lime butter clam sauce. Immediately you notice how the wine’s butter and citrus notes intermingle with the lime butter clam sauce, refreshing the palate, yet expanding on every flavor in the dish. Smooth, limestone, flint, butter, and an oak finish, paired with sweetness, acidity, citrus, and savory delight, a great way to start the night.

Gérard Bertrand’s Château l'Hospitalet Rouge 2022, paired with Smoked Pork Ribs in 4 Season Sauce

It is not too often you come across truly tender smoked pork ribs in Phnom Penh, and even less so alongside a wine that compliments each other. The ribs arrive, already well coated in a 4 season sauce that is at once sweet and savory, yet grounded enough to eat like a gravy. A bite of tender pork, filling your palate with its rendered fat and meat, and then the Chateau l’Hospitalet, the dark jamminess cutting cleanly through the richness of the pork fat, resetting the palate, leaving on your palate a wonderfully long finish of red fruit, despite its initial darkness. This was a true marriage of dish and wine, lifting each other effortlessly.

Cigalus Rouge 2021 paired with Côte de Bœuf flambéed with Sampan Rhum

A familiar face from the afternoon's masterclass closes us out before dessert. The Côte de Bœuf arrives with a charcoal crust, perfectly tender from blue to medium rare, its smokiness meeting the Cigalus Rouge's fruit-forward warmth in exactly the way you'd hope. Red meat and red wine, doing what they were always meant to do together. The Gérard Bertrand wine list, it turns out, is endless.

Gérard Bertrand @ Pompette — March 26th

Tucked into the quieter residential streets of Toul Tom Pong, away from the hustle and bustle of BKK, Pompette is a good friend and perhaps one of the most well-designed spaces in the city. Parking may test your patience, but TTP's growing scene of restaurants and bars makes it worth the trouble, a foodie haven for those who know where to look.

Walk in and the space opens up: glass on the right, a glass roof above for those who enjoy the ambience of people watching without having to combat mosquitoes. Further in, paintings and ornaments line the walls on either side. The bar and kitchen co-exist openly, nothing to hide, everything to watch. Whether you are drinking wine or one of their specially crafted cocktails, the open kitchen pulls you in from the moment you arrive. And the smells coming out of it will make you hungrier than you already are.

The food is special. Fusion, experimental, yet when you take a bite, wholly complete, fried chicken to open alongside an orange wine, a pork chop loin in fried shallots cooked sous vide to quiet perfection, a penne in white sauce with a warmth and nuttiness that lingers, and a white clam sauce that tied it all together. The evening ran through the Art de Vivre series, Côte des Roses, Orange Gold (Personal favorite!), and a special An Loup 1189, this night was an expansion of the Gérard Bertrand range, where free flow was abundant and good times all around. An event worth revisiting, as it felt like a choose your own adventure with plenty of the range of Gérard Bertrand’s range, and the flowing dishes at Pompette, it kept on coming!

ថ្ងៃទី២៥ ខែមីនា ឆ្នាំ២០២៦

ចេញពីបន្ទប់ក្រោមដីនៃតំបន់ Champagne យើងបន្តដំណើរទៅទិសខាងត្បូង ឆ្ពោះទៅកាន់តំបន់ Languedoc ដ៏ស្រស់ស្អាត ដែលជាផ្ទះរបស់អ្នកផលិតស្រាដ៏ល្បីល្បាញ៖ លោក Gérard Bertrand។ ប្រសិនបើដំណើរទស្សនកិច្ចរបស់ Champagne Henriot បានបង្រៀនយើងឱ្យស្គាល់ពីខ្លឹមសារដ៏បរិសុទ្ធនៃផ្លែទំពាំងបាយជូរដោយមិនប្រើឈើអូក (Oak) នោះបទពិសោធន៍ជាមួយ Gérard Bertrand នឹងផ្តល់ឱ្យយើងនូវទស្សនៈខុសប្លែកពីគេទាំងស្រុង។ ដឹកនាំកម្មវិធីដោយលោក Jan Visser នាយកផ្នែកលក់ប្រចាំតំបន់ APAC ដែលមានបទពិសោធន៍ជាង ២០ ឆ្នាំជាមួយ Gérard Bertrand។

បុរសដែលនៅពីក្រោយផ្លាកយីហោ

យើងចាប់ផ្តើមជាមួយនឹងប្រវត្តិនៃម៉ាកយីហោ គឺលោក Gérard Bertrand ដែលបានធំធាត់នៅភាគខាងត្បូងនៃប្រទេសបារាំង ជាមួយនឹងចំណងចំណូលចិត្តមិនត្រឹមតែលើស្រាទំពាំងបាយជូរប៉ុណ្ណោះទេ ប៉ុន្តែថែមទាំងកីឡារ៉ាក់ប៊ី (Rugby) ផងដែរ។ លោកធ្លាប់ជាប្រធានក្រុម RC Narbonne និងក្រោយមកបានចូលរួមជាមួយ Stade Français។ ទោះជាយ៉ាងណាក៏ដោយ ចំណងចំណូលចិត្តទាំងពីរនេះបានដើរទន្ទឹមគ្នា ហើយស្រាទំពាំងបាយជូរតែងតែមានឥទ្ធិពលយ៉ាងខ្លាំងក្នុងជីវិតរបស់លោក ដែលត្រូវបានបណ្តុះបណ្តាលដោយផ្ទាល់ពីឪពុករបស់លោក គឺលោក Georges Bertrand។

ជាអកុសល នៅឆ្នាំ១៩៨៧ ឪពុករបស់លោកបានទទួលមរណភាព ដែលធ្វើឱ្យ Gérard ក្នុងវ័យត្រឹមតែ ២២ ឆ្នាំ ត្រូវទទួលបន្ទុកគ្រប់គ្រងចម្ការគ្រួសារ៖ Domaine de Villemajou ក្នុងតំបន់ Corbières។ អស់រយៈពេលជាច្រើនឆ្នាំ លោកបានហ្វឹកហាត់រ៉ាក់ប៊ីផង និងគ្រប់គ្រងការផលិតស្រាផង រហូតដល់លោកបានចូលនិវត្តន៍ពីកីឡានៅពាក់កណ្តាលទសវត្សរ៍ទី៩០ ដើម្បីងាកមកផ្តោតលើស្រាទំពាំងបាយជូរទាំងស្រុង។ អ្វីដែលកើតឡើងបន្ទាប់មក គឺការកសាងអាណាចក្រស្រាទំពាំងបាយជូរដ៏អស្ចារ្យ។

អាណាចក្រ Gérard Bertrand

បច្ចុប្បន្ន អាណាចក្រនេះគ្របដណ្តប់លើផ្ទៃដីជាង ១,០០០ ហិកតា នៅទូទាំងតំបន់ Languedoc ដែលជាតំបន់ដាំដុះទំពាំងបាយជូរសរីរាង្គ (Organic) ធំជាងគេបំផុតនៅក្នុងប្រទេសបារាំង។ ជាអាជីវកម្មគ្រួសារដែលមានវត្តមានយ៉ាងខ្លាំងក្លានៅលើទីផ្សារសកល ហើយបច្ចុប្បន្នឈានដល់ជំនាន់ទី៤ ហើយ ចាប់តាំងពីលោក Paule, Georges, Gérard រហូតដល់ Emma និង Mathias។ កូនស្រីរបស់ Gérard គឺកញ្ញា Emma បម្រើការជាអ្នកដឹកនាំផ្នែកច្នៃប្រឌិត (Creative Director) និងជាឯកអគ្គរដ្ឋទូតសកលសម្រាប់ម៉ាកយីហោ ខណៈដែលកូនប្រុសរបស់លោកគឺ Mathias ទទួលបន្ទុកផ្នែកបច្ចេកទេសដាំដុះ។

លក្ខណៈពិសេសបំផុតរបស់ Gérard Bertrand គឺការប្តេជ្ញាចិត្តចំពោះកសិកម្មបែប Biodynamic (កសិកម្មដែលគោរពតាមចង្វាក់ធម្មជាតិ និងសកលលោក) ដែលត្រូវបានអនុវត្តតាំងពីមុនពេលមានការបញ្ជាក់ជាផ្លូវការទៅទៀត។ វិធីសាស្ត្រនេះផ្តល់តម្លៃដល់ដី ផ្កាយ និងសត្វលោកទាំងអស់ដែលរស់នៅក្នុងចម្ការ។ បច្ចុប្បន្ន ស្រាទាំងអស់របស់លោកទទួលបានវិញ្ញាបនបត្រ Demeter ដែលជាការបញ្ជាក់កម្រិតខ្ពស់បំផុតនៃកសិកម្មបែបធម្មជាតិ។

ផលិតផលស្រា

Domaine L’Aigle (ដូម៉ែន ឡីក)

ស្រានេះមានរូបសញ្ញាសត្វឥន្ទ្រីនៅលើផ្លាក ដែលបានមកពីឈ្មោះចម្ការដែលមានសំបុកឥន្ទ្រីតាំងពីឆ្នាំ១៩៤០។

រសជាតិ៖ ស្រដៀងទៅនឹង Chardonnay មកពីតំបន់ Burgundy មានក្លិនឈើអូក រសជាតិប័រ ភាពស្រស់ស្រាយ និងមានរសជាតិជាប់មាត់បានយូរ។

Cigalus Blanc (ស៊ីកាលូស ស)

ឈ្មោះនេះមានទំនាក់ទំនងរវាងបារាំង និងកម្ពុជា គឺសត្វ Cigale ឬ សត្វចង្រិត/រៃ ដែលជាតំណាងរដូវក្តៅនៅភាគខាងត្បូងប្រទេសបារាំង។

រសជាតិ៖ ជាការរួមបញ្ចូលគ្នារវាង Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc និង Viognier។ វាមានជាតិអាស៊ីតខ្ពស់ជាង Domaine L’Aigle ប៉ុន្តែរក្សាបាននូវភាពតុល្យភាព រសជាតិមុតស្រួច និងក្លិនឈ្ងុយដូចនំប៉័ងអាំង។ សាកល្បងញ៉ាំជាមួយ "រៃបំពង" ប្រាកដជាប្លែកមាត់!

Domaine L’Aigle Pinot Noir (ភីណូ ន័រ)

ស្រាក្រហមបែប Burgundy ប៉ុន្តែមានឥទ្ធិពលពីកម្តៅថ្ងៃនៃតំបន់ Languedoc ដែលធ្វើឱ្យវាមានពណ៌ដិតជាង និងមានរសជាតិផ្លែឈើខ្លាំងដូចជា ផ្លែឆឺរីខ្មៅ និងឈើអូក។

Cigalus Red (ស៊ីកាលូស ក្រហម)

ស្រានេះរួមបញ្ចូលទំពាំងបាយជូររហូតដល់ ៧ ប្រភេទ! វាជាការផ្សារភ្ជាប់គ្នារវាងព្រលឹងពីរនៃស្រាបារាំង៖ ភាពរស់រវើកនៃតំបន់មេឌីទែរ៉ាណេ និងភាពប្រណីតនៃតំបន់ Bordeaux។

Domaine De Villemajou Red (ដូម៉ែន ឌឺ វីឡាម៉ាហ៊្សូ)

នេះគឺជាកេរដំណែលដំបូងបង្អស់ដែល Gérard ទទួលបានពីឪពុក។ ផ្លាកយីហោពណ៌មាស និងការរចនាបែបបុរាណតាំងពីឆ្នាំ១៩៧០ បង្ហាញពីការគោរពចំពោះប្រវត្តិសាស្ត្រ។ រសជាតិរបស់វាផ្តល់នូវអារម្មណ៍បែបដីធ្លី មានក្លិនស្បែកសត្វ ផ្លែឈើខ្មៅ និងម្រេចស។

Gérard Bertrand នៅ Le Deli

បន្ទាប់ពីថ្នាក់ Masterclass យើងបានបន្តទៅកាន់ Le Deli ដែលជាហាងប៊ឺស្ត្រូ (Bistro) បារាំងដ៏កក់ក្តៅនៅកណ្តាលក្រុងភ្នំពេញ ដឹកនាំដោយចុងភៅ Pierre Favitski។

បង្កងប៉ាកអាំង (Grilled King Prawn):

ញ៉ាំជាមួយស្រា Château l'Hospitalet Blanc 2022។ រសជាតិប័រ និងអាស៊ីតបស់ស្រា បានជួយបង្កើនរសជាតិផ្អែមរបស់បង្កងយ៉ាងឥតខ្ចោះ។

ឆ្អឹងជំនីជ្រូកខ្វៃ (Smoked Pork Ribs):

ញ៉ាំជាមួយ Château l'Hospitalet Rouge 2022។ ភាពដិតនៃស្រាបានជួយកាត់ជាតិខ្លាញ់នៃសាច់ជ្រូក និងបន្សល់ទុកនូវរសជាតិផ្លែឈើក្រហមយ៉ាងឈ្ងុយ។

Cigalus Rouge 2021 × Côte de Bœuf (អាំងជាមួយរំ Sampan)

សាច់គោអាំង Côte de Bœuf ដ៏ទន់ផុយ (medium rare) និងមានក្លិនឈ្ងុយពីការអាំងដោយប្រើធ្យូង ស័ក្តិសមឥតខ្ចោះជាមួយនឹងភាពកក់ក្តៅ និងរសជាតិផ្លែឈើរបស់ស្រា Cigalus Rouge។ សាច់ក្រហម និងស្រាក្រហម គឺជាការផ្គូផ្គងដ៏ល្អឯក។

Gérard Bertrand នៅ Pompette, ថ្ងៃទី២៦ ខែមីនា

ហាង Pompette ស្ថិតនៅក្នុងសង្កាត់ទួលទំពូង ជាទីតាំងដ៏ទាក់ទាញសម្រាប់អ្នកចូលចិត្តអាហារ និងភេសជ្ជៈ។

ហាងមានការរចនាបែបកញ្ចក់ បរិយាកាសបើកចំហ និងផ្ទះបាយដែលអតិថិជនអាចមើលឃើញការចម្អិនដោយផ្ទាល់។

អាហារនៅទីនេះមានលក្ខណៈច្នៃប្រឌិត (Fusion) ដូចជាមាន់បំពងញ៉ាំជាមួយស្រាពណ៌ទឹកក្រូច (Orange Wine), សាច់ជ្រូកចម្អិនបែប Sous Vide និងប៉ាស្តា Penne។ យប់នោះពោរពេញដោយភាពរីករាយជាមួយនឹងស្រា Côte des Roses, Orange Gold និង An Loup 1189។